About month ago we talked about Dior Saddle bags come back on Instagram, but looks like it needs a little more attention and celebration as Dior have truly welcomed the bag with major Instagram campaign.

Logo It bags ruled the early 2000s as the ultimate must-have accessory. And now, one of the decade’s most coveted, the Dior saddle bag, is officially making a comeback.

The original, designed by John Galliano (then creative director of Dior), paid homage to equestrianism, but quickly became synonymous with celebrities rather than horses. Carried by everyone from Paris Hilton to Carrie Bradshaw and beyond, Dior’s ubiquitous saddle bag ruled the early aughts—cementing its status as one of the key looks of the era. Though most often done in Dior’s signature logo print, the It bag was offered in a wide array of styles, patterns and colors in its prime.

The new Dior Saddle Bag is available in Dior stores worldwide. The bags range in price from $2,350 for the mini oblique to $8,500 for the medium size embroidered with beads and fringes.

 

“LVMH sees new, revived products as key to keeping up with rivals.” reported by BOF. Trendsetting models Bella Hadid and Elsa Hosk were soon spotted carrying vintage Saddle bags, driving up demand on luxury resale sites like Vestiaire Collective.

Then, last week, just as Europe’s other fashion houses were winding down for their summer recess, Dior unleashed the bags in a marketing blitzkrieg that was hard to miss: scores of Instagram influencers from around the world posted images modelling the $2,000-plus bags on the same day that Dior released its own campaigns, with models posing against vintage cars on the streets of Paris.

Vogue and Marie Claire published dreamy videos from Dior’s ateliers of the bags being hammered into shape on wooden molds. On the Chinese social network Weibo, Dior took a more literal approach, posting a clip of Hong Kong fashion star Elle Lee posing as an elated client in front of a shop mirror. Some of the Instagrammers acknowledged that they’d been gifted the bags using hashtags like #SuppliedByDior.

For LVMH, whose brands including Louis Vuitton, Fendi and Céline are among the world’s most established, new product launches are essential to keep up growth — and to maintain their lead on fast-growing challengers like Kering’s revamped Gucci and Balenciaga divisions. “Consumers are asking now for ongoing novelties,” Equita SIM analyst Paola Carboni said of the move to push the bags in a big summer “drop,” outside the usual fashion calendar. “It’s consistent with the changes in creative direction at LVMH — the idea is to renew the offer on a constant basis.”

With retro logos and reissues of archival designs driving the fashion conversation by tapping into customers’ nostalgia — as in Versace’s Tribute collection — it’s no surprise that many designers are feeding the hunger for new products by reviving old standards rather than risking big ad dollars to promote an untested product.

“The Dior Saddle bag is a perfect product to relaunch today,” said Katy Lubin, communications director at the fashion search engine Lyst. “It’s instantly recognisable on Instagram, plays into the logomania trend, and it comes with a serious dose of early-aughts nostalgia.” LVMH said in May it would take a minority stake in Lyst.

 

Back in LA with my #DiorSaddle.

A post shared by Negin Mirsalehi (@negin_mirsalehi) on

 

 

The #DiorSaddle is back and cooler than ever @dior

A post shared by Brittany Xavier (@brittanyxavier) on

Wearing @tularosalabel @revolve #revolvesummer #DiorSaddle

A post shared by Aimee Song (@songofstyle) on

 

New baby @dior ???? #DiorSaddle #SuppliedbyDior

A post shared by Nicole Warne (@garypeppergirl) on

 

Diet Prada posted a purported section of the original “gifting” request from Dior, which allegedly asked influencers the following:

“The new Dior Saddle bag will be launching Globally in Dior boutiques on 19th July. To celebrate the launch, we are planning on a huge digital moment and have asked 100 influencers to post images of the Saddle bag at exactly the same time and day.” Dior did not immediately respond to a request confirming the statement.

Diet Prada pointed out that the request from Dior is technically in violation of the Federal Trade Commission’s endorsement guidelines. According to the FTC, when given something to promote the endorser must make clear that the post is part of an endorsement: “‘The point is to give readers the essential information. A simple disclosure like ‘Company X gave me this product to try . . . .’ That gives the necessary heads-up to your viewers,’” the FTC’s website reads. The FTC did not immediately respond to a request for comment on the saddle bag controversy.

What’s more, the campaign is skirting some of Instagram’s own endorsement tools. Last year, the FTC famously sent warning letters to 21 Instagram influencers asking them to disclose whether there existed a “material connection between the endorser and the marketer of a product” including “the provision of free products to the endorser.”

The FTC’s fit lead to Instagram’s paid partnership feature, which made it easier for users to label posts as paid product endorsements in a move to bring greater transparency to sponsored content (the Facebook-owned platform has yet to create a profound endorsement policy, but according to Fortune, plans to develop one that includes some kind of enforcement based in part on the feedback it gets on the new feature). It was surprising, then, that Instagram’s head of fashion partnerships, Eva Chen, didn’t use to tool use to label her own saddle bag post, which was posted at the same time as other influencers. When a follower asked her about the post, Chen noted that she returned the bag later that day, and that no money was changed hands.

So who is to blame? Dior? The influencers? Gullible Instagram users? Precedent would tell us that Dior is likely to get the bulk of the flack if they truly made the request—back in 2016 the FTC slammed department store Lord & Taylor for failing to disclose paid social posts, and ended up settling over charges that it deceived its customers.