Christian Dior

Even as Chiuri continues to position Dior with cultural feminist messaging, she remains somewhat conservative in the fashion messaging. The substance is all there; but you do see a painting that is less daring than it is pleasing.


Though her shapes and cuts are what used to be termed forgiving—i.e., swingy, swirling, and body covering—they’re definitely not for anyone who wants to hide. The designer constructs things to be seen in motion—and with all the pleating and floating going on in the fabric, the more a woman moves, the more of the room, the gallery, the landscape she takes up. “In this one,” the designer chuckled, pointing out an orange dress worn over olive pants, “she looks like she’s flying!”

Giorgio Armani

After years of streetwear, the tide is apparently turning. Tailoring is getting renewed attention, including from a younger generation of designers and customers. Giorgio Armani, whose influential aesthetic has since the ’80s provided working women with an elegant everyday uniform, is obviously in an ideal position. His archives are bursting with the kind of soft-tailored blazers and elongated, almost liquid pantsuits that feel of-the-moment.

Adam Lippes

Its poetic mix of textures, deep colors, and time periods were on his mind as he worked on his vivid Pre-Fall collection, which ranged from a boyish cotton jumpsuit to a Met Gala–worthy double chiffon long dress, without a wrong note.

Oscar de la Renta

The evolution that Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia are overseeing at Oscar de la Renta is one that primarily concerns construction. Young women want softer, lighter garments. In tandem with that comes a certain offhandedness that might be unfamiliar to longtime clients of the label. “So we’re doing it slowly,” said Kim at a showroom appointment.